While WEST SYSTEM® epoxy has a long shelf life, age will eventually affect its handling characteristics and cured strength. When stored for very long periods, hardeners may turn darker (reddish to purple), become thicker and give off more odor. 105 Resin may lose some clarity and also become slightly thicker. Use extra care when mixing age-thickened products (stir extra thoroughly), and if color and/or clarity are crucial to your project, buy some fresh resin and hardener for best results. 207 Special Clear Hardener is specially formulated for clarity and flow. Continue reading
Tag Archives: Epoxyworks #8
Adding Pigment to WEST SYSTEM Epoxy
by Brian Knight—GBI Technical Advisor
Adding a coloring agent to WEST SYSTEM® Epoxy is frequently done to make colored castings, highlight an epoxy coated surface, act as a colored base coat for paint, etc. Most powdered pigments are satisfactory, as are acrylic paste pigments and universal tinting pigment. Continue reading
The Re-commissioning of Adagio
By Meade Gougeon — GBI Founder
It was after eight months of building that we originally launched Adagio, our 35-foot cruising trimaran. It was on July 6, 1970, and she was then a unique boat in three respects.
First, she was the first large wooden boat entirely bonded together with epoxy using no permanent fastenings. While this is common today, it was revolutionary stuff back when adhesives for wooden boatbuilding (including epoxies) were looked upon as a backup to traditional wood fasteners like nails, screws and bolts. Continue reading
The Wingmast Advantage
By J.R. Watson
One of the original experimental components of Adagio was the rotating wing mast. In 1970, a plywood mast (a fore runner to our 050 mast design) was stepped on Adagio.
The rotated airfoil-shaped wing mast makes a smooth transition from mast to sail on the leeward side. This provides cleaner airflow around the mast. The benefit is better attached airflow, thus less drag and more power driving the boat. Continue reading
Climbing Drum Peel Test for Adhesives
By Bruce Niederer — GBI Technical Advisor
No matter how you use WEST SYSTEM epoxies, you expect us to back up the products and methods we recommend with solid data based on tests that simulate “real life” applications. To this end we began conducting the ASTM 1781-93 test method known as the Climbing Drum Peel for Adhesives. As expected, the results from this test method compliment the data we’ve already compiled using the PATTI (Pneumatic Adhesion Tensile Testing Instrument) meter. Continue reading
Repairing a Hobie 16
by Brian Knight—GBI Technical Advisor
My son was sailing his older model Hobie 16 when the aft trampoline post suddenly gave way. The support structure holding the post in place failed, allowing the deck to deflect downwards and also punching a hole in the hull. Paul used WEST SYSTEM Epoxy and the following techniques to repair the damage. Continue reading
Fairing a Fiberglass Beach Cat’s Bottom
by Captain James R. Watson
Dragging your catamaran over sandy beaches can abrade away material on the bottom of the hull, thereby flattening the sectional shape. Usually this area will extend 4 or 5 feet each way of the hull’s mid-section. You need to fix it so it doesn’t wear through, and to maintain optimum design performance. Continue reading
Bass Straight Crossing in a Pedal Boat
On December 13, 1996, Stuart Andrew became the first person to cross the Bass Straight alone in a pedal boat. On completing this goal he remarked, “I’d never do it again. I’d never think of doing it again. My legs feel like big lumps of wood, my eyes are stinging, but I’ve finally made it.” The following article was published by Epoxyworks in Fall 1996, a few months before Andrews made his record breaking journey in a 7.45 meter pedal boat constructed of Durakore® and WEST SYSTEM® Epoxy.
Repair Tips: Backer Plates & Mounting Cleats
By Jerry Cronan
Putting a backer plate in an inaccessible area
Here is how I fixed an unwanted hole in the transom of a foam-filled boat.
- I drilled a ½” diameter hole on each side of the unwanted hole,then used a saber saw to connect the holes to form a slot.
- Next, I cut 4mm thick plywood into a football-shaped backer plat that would fit through the slot the narrow way. I attached strings to the plate, coated it with epoxy then slipped it through the slot.
- Using the strings, I turned the plate so that it covered the three holes and the slot. Reference marks on the plate helped me get it in the right position.
Fiberglass Removal Techniques
By Tom Pawlak — GBI Technical Advisor
Occasionally we receive calls from people who want to remove fiberglass cloth from wooden structures. The fiberglass on the bottom of a stripper canoe has worn out or the fiberglass and polyester on the deck of an older wooden sailboat has delaminated. The techniques described here work well for removing 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass cloth from wood surfaces. Continue reading