Object: white rectangular hatch resting on a frame. Action: hatch lies flat with two handles on top. Context: on a bench with tools and a spray can labeled PLASTIC behind.

Repairing a Plastic Hatch with G/Flex

By Tom Pawlak — GBI Technical Advisor

A local sailor stopped by our shop with an old plastic hatch that was slightly warped and badly cracked. He hadn’t been able to find a similar hatch to replace it. He wondered if we had an epoxy that could be used to repair the hatch. I said G/flex would likely work but to know for sure we needed to do a bit of adhesion testing.

A hand holds a small black-edged blade against a wooden block inside a white divided tray, while the block rests on a compartment surface with other tiny wooden pieces nearby.

The hatch was made with an injection molding process that used thermal-formed plastic, probably ABS or PVC. Adhesion testing revealed that G/flex epoxy adhered well to surfaces that were sanded as well as to surfaces exposed briefly to the blue part of the flame from a propane torch. The accompanying pictures tell the repair story.

Note: To flame treat a plastic surface, hold a propane torch so the tip of the blue part of the flame just touches the surface and move it across the surface quickly (12″–16″ per second). Keep the torch moving and overlap the previous pass slightly. When done correctly, the surface will not discolor or burn in any obvious way. This technique oxidizes the surface and improves adhesion. For best adhesion, bond to the surface within 30 minutes of treatment.

Plastic Hatch Repair Steps

  1. Bevel the Cracks

    Bevel the cracks to increase surface area for the repair after drilling holes at the ends of each crack to prevent the cracks from continuing. Flame treat the repair surfaces with a propane torch.Hand grips a black-handled, metal-bladed tool and cuts a curved channel into a white panel, peeling thin shavings. The scene is a workshop with tape rolls and a worktable.

  2. Apply G/flex 655

    Apply G/flex 655 (the thickened version of G/flex) to the prepared cracks, filling them flush with the surface.Y-shaped yellow liquid path leaks across a clear plastic sheet on a workbench; the liquid drips along its branches while metal rings and clamps lie nearby in a laboratory setting.

  3. Clamp the Hatch Lid

    Clamp the hatch lid against a stiff and flat piece of plywood covered with plastic to flatten it while the epoxy cures (This was necessary because the hatch had deformed.)Object: A black screwdown press head sits on a round wooden disk. Action: It applies downward pressure. Context: On a white plastic tray covered with plastic atop a lab bench.

  4. Glue in Packing Foam

    Glue low-density packaging foam (the white beady type) into the spaces between the ribs on the back side of the lid.Two tubes labeled GFlex and EPOXY ADHESIVE lie on a tiled surface. A white sponge, small tile spacer, and a cloth rest nearby amid yellowed grout panels.

  5. Apply Fiberglass Cloth

    Apply a layer of 6 oz fiberglass cloth over the foam and ribs to
    stiffen and reinforce the lid.Object: a yellow utility knife. Action: cutting a pale yellow, four-square block inside a white plastic tray. Context: on a work surface with a blue binder visible in the background. Transcription: Text visible includes "Five S" and "50 Sheets" on the blue item in the background.

  6. Scrape and Sand

    Scrape and sand the repaired cracks smooth.Flat, rusted metal plate held by gloved hands and resting on a white surface in a workshop or lab, leaving yellowish stains on the surface.

  7. Paint the Hatch

    Paint the hatch with plastic compatible Rustoleum™ Textured
    Paint for Plastic. Krylon™ Fusion for Plastic™ also works well. In the end, the hatch looks as good as new.Object: white rectangular hatch resting on a frame. Action: hatch lies flat with two handles on top. Context: on a bench with tools and a spray can labeled PLASTIC behind.